quiltingsewingcrochetknittingneedleartsfabric craftsyarn crafts

shopping fiber images

craft pattern Fiber Images™
Craft Pattern Gallery

fiber care labels
fiber care labels
Fiber Care and Content Labels

gift tags
gift tags
Gift Tags

handcrafted gift Fiber Images™ Handcrafted and Gift Items

orion knitting machine needle
orion knitting machine needle
Orion (Sears) Knitting Machine Needles

sale Fiber Images™ Sale

"Ask the Expert" Crochet Questions From Our Site Visitors

ask the expert crochet

1 - Help! I am facing a long plane ride and just found out that I cannot bring along my crocheting to pass the time. Do you have any suggestions of similar activities that I can do while flying. (Is it possible to crochet without a hook)

I assume the problem with crocheting on a plane is with the hook and not the yarn. There is such a thing as “finger crocheting.” It is used to teach small children the concept of crochet before teaching them to use a hook. You use your index finger as a hook and because of the size of your finger, would work best on a “crochet it in a day” pattern that uses a very large hook and 2-3 or more strands of yarn. Just start your foundation chain with a normal slip knot and insert your finger through the loop and pull up another loop and continue on to the desired length. Turn and work back across the row by sticking your index finger between the loops as you would with a hook, and pull up loops with your finger. I would suggest limiting your stitch pattern to single or at most, double crochet. As you can imagine, this is a very time-consuming process so I would suggest keeping your project small (i.e. a vest vs. an afghan). Try it before you get on the plane – it can be fun and makes a loose open textured fabric.

2 - I have been crocheting for a long time, but I'm relatively new to the terms used. Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me what sc, ch, sk, sp, and dc stands for.

sc = single crochet
ch = chain
sp = space
dc = double crochet

3 - How do you crochet an oval.

An oval is basically a circle cut in half with a straight or bar piece between the two end half-circles. To crochet an oval, you will work it as 3 sections: half circle, bar between (both sides,) half circle. You start by chaining the desired length of the bar plus a stitch on both ends for the beginning of the half-circles. On your first round, increase (usually 3 sts in 1) in the first stitch for your half-circles, work across to end, inc for half-circle, work around the beginning, join. Mark your bar stitches so you will know where to place the increases on the half-circles. As you work rounds, your increases will be on the half-circle portions of the oval and you will increase as many stitches as needed to keep the oval from curling (curling results when not enough stitches are added) or ruffling (ruffling results when too many stitches are added.) The number of stitches increased will depend on your gauge, the hook size and type of yarn used. Hope this helps.

4 - I am crocheting doll clothes for a 17" doll. I have patterns for the same doll in a smaller size. The patterns call for an E hook. This would be a 12" doll. I can use an I hook to make the patterns and WW yarn but it comes out looking sloppy. My question is, how can I make the patterns, all patterns to fit this particular 17" doll without using a huge size hook and WW yarn that makes the finished clothes look sloppy.

In order to convert the crochet pattern, you will need to do a mathematical conversion. The mathematical formula is: [the part /(divided by) the whole] or [the number of stitches or rows in the pattern / inches width or rows in pattern = X the number of converted stitches or rows / new width or row measurement}. Cross multiplication results in the number of converted stitches or rows X = (pattern stitches or rows) (new width or rows in inches) / pattern width or rows in inches. You will need to do the math for each instruction in the pattern.
If you do not want to do the mathematical conversion, the “trial and error method” would mean guessing at how many stitches or rows to increase the pattern by and then making the piece and then trying it on to see if it fits. By rough estimates, 17” is roughly 42% larger than 12”. Therefore, you will be increasing the pattern by roughly 42%. For example, if the pattern calls for working 14 sc, adding 42% would mean working the 14 sc plus 5 or 6 sc (42% of 14) which means working 19 or 20 sc and then trying the garment on the doll. You will add 42% to each instruction in the pattern.

5 - How do I use a different yarn than the pattern calls for.

To substitute a yarn in a pattern, select the yarn you want to use and work a gauge swatch according to the pattern hook/needle. Compare your swatch to the pattern gauge and adjust your hook/needle up or down until you get the pattern gauge. If there is a large difference between the pattern hook/needle and your gauge swatch hook/needle, the resulting fabric may come out too loose or too stiff and it would be better to select a different yarn.

6 - There are a lot of guides out there for those of us who knit to give us an idea of how many yards, for example, a standard afghan knit in worsted weight wool will take. However, I am also a crocheter and there don't seem to be any guides for making the same type of calculation for crocheted items. Are you aware of any. I'd be delighted to find such info. Thank you in advance if you can help.

An approximate crochet yardage calculation would be to take the yardage given for knitting and add 25-30% for crochet.

7 - What is the best way to join two colors of yarn. I always do a "square knot", also called a "double knot", then trim both ends as close as possible. But recently I made my first "granny square" afghan and, after washing it the first time, on gentle cycle, many of the joined color yarns came apart! This will completely ruin an otherwise beautiful piece of work!!! I want to do another one, but not until I can made SURE that it won't fall apart after washing. Can you help me with this issue.

Use the square knot but do not cut the yarn close to the knot. Leave about 3” tails and weave then back into the crocheted fabric or work over the tails as you crochet.

8 - When you are crocheting back and forth on a scarf in double crochet, and you chain up at the end of the row, does the chain up count as one of the double crochet stitches in the next row. And do you do a double crochet in the stitch the chain comes out of, or the next one. I find my scarves have bulges down the sides and I think it is because of how I am doing the turns at each end. Thank you for your time.

It sounds like you are increasing at the edge every row by working a dc in the wrong stitch of the previous row which is why your scarf bulges. Please see our Crochet Turning Chains Chart under our Reference Chart section in our Free and Fun section.

9 - I am crocheting a baby blanket and it is wider at the hook end than the chain end - what am I doing wrong.

You may be doing nothing wrong. Your foundation chain may be too tight. Try working the foundation chain with a much larger hook and then switch to the hook specified in the pattern to work the remainder of the blanket.

10 - I found a cross stitch pattern that Ii would like to turn into a crochet pattern to make an blanket or throw. Can you help me please.

The easiest way to convert the cross stitch pattern to crochet would be to chart/draw it out in the crochet stitch gauge. The easiest way to chart is to use our Knitter’s Grid or some other product to give you the correct crochet gauge and an overall “picture” of what you are trying to accomplish.

11 - I'm making a very large crocheted afghan made with 100% acrylic yarn, my problem is I crocheted the middle to tight, now there's about a 2 inch difference in the width. Can I block it to make it even and if so, after blocking can it be washed according to manufactures instructions without going back to the way, it was before blocking or will it stay straight. If I can block it what would the best way?

I am a little hesitant to tell you to block your afghan because I don’t want it ruined. The only way to block it so it could be washed afterwards would be to “heat set” it. If it where mine, I’d wet to down, stretch it out to the correct size (pin it to the carpeting), and then “heat set” it with a steam iron (put something like an old sheet under the afghan so the heat does not ruin the carpeting). Be very careful with the iron as excessive hot heat can melt the fibers. The alternative would be to wash it, block it and hope the sizes stays in place - this may need to be done after each washing.

12 - There are a lot of guides out there for those of us who knit to give us an idea of how many yards, for example, a standard afghan knit in worsted weight wool will take. However, I am also a crocheter and there don't seem to be any guides for making the same type of calculation for crocheted items.

An approximate crochet yardage calculation would be to take the yardage given for knitting and add 25-30% for crochet.

13 - I am working on a pattern that says "hdc in top of the turning chain, chain 2, turn work". How can I hdc in the top of a dc turning chain – where is the top and how do I do this before turning the work?

The top of the turning chain is the last stitch on the row you are working, or the turning chain at the beginning of the previous row. You would work a hdc in the top of the turning chain of the previous row, then chain 2 (this will be the turning chain for the next row) and then turn your work and continue on. See Crochet Turning Chains Chart.

copyright © MM, Fiber Images™. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. This material may not be sold, copied, or reproduced in any form without the written consent of the author. Do not copy or post to another web site.


This material is copyrighted and printed with permission and may be used for your personal use only.
It may not be copied or reproduced in any form, sold, or copied or posted to another web site




Return to Top of Page

fiber images

welcome to FI about FI privacy policy feedback form sitemap links link to FI