Hints and Tips - Yarn Crafts

Consider the stitch pattern when choosing a yarn. A complicated stitch pattern will be lost among the long, hairy fibers of mohair or angora.
For a more accurate gauge, use a see-through plastic ruler when measuring stitches and rows.
To make sure you don’t run out of yarn, be sure your stitch gauge is correct. A slightly larger gauge than the pattern can cause the project to be a considerable amount of yarn (another good reason to always buy extra yarn.)
A quick and easy skein holder is to take a large plastic soft drink bottle (liter size) and cut off the top, place the skein inside, and yarn will not roll around the floor. You could also cut off the bottom and then pull the yarn out through the bottle neck. A square tissue box also works - just place the yarn inside the box and pull the yarn end out the tissue box top.
Use one size smaller needle on the row before ribbing to keep ribbing tight and neat.
Clean hands, clean project.
At the end of a piece that will be sewn to another, leave a long enough end to do the sewing. This saves on the number of ends to be worked in later.
Weave ends in as you go to avoid the tedious task of doing them all last.
When working from a sweater body or sleeve to the cuff, work the row before the ribbing with the cuff needle.
Before you tackle a knitting or crochet project, read all the instructions and underline or highlight those that apply to the desired size.
Make gauge swatches at least 4" square in order to get an accurate measurement. You can always make an afghan of your 4” blocks.
Use a Knitting Needle Measuring Guide to determine the size of unmarked circular, straight, or double point knitting needles.
When working with a "fuzzy" or "sticky" yarn, use a metal needle so the stitches slide easily. Needles are available in plastic, metal, wood, etc. Since different yarns work better with different needle finishes, have several sets of needles on hand and use the needle that glide most easily through the yarn you have chosen.
Use a dark colored needle when working with a light colored yarn. For dark colored yarn, use a light colored needle.
If you get interrupted while knitting, prevent slipped stitches by clipping a clothespin over the needle ends.
To make sure your finished project is the right size, the gauge is the most important aspect of a pattern. It doesn't matter what size needle you use to get the gauge. Start with the needle size suggested in the pattern and work a gauge swatch. If the swatch is larger than required, use a smaller needle and try again. If the swatch is smaller than required, use a larger needle and try again.
Different colors of yarn of the same brand and weight may have different textures due to the dying process. If using multiple colors, work a swatch with each color. If one color works up differently, use the larger or smaller needle for that color only. Dark colored yarns can be thicker due to the heavier dye, so purchase a little extra for safety's sake.
When giving a hand made gift, enclose a label from the yarn with washing instructions and extra yarn and buttons. see Gift Tags.
Always buy yarn of the same dye lot for a project and buying a few extra skeins insures you will not run out. Even "no dye lot" yarns can very slightly in color. If you cannot buy enough of one dye lot for an entire project or if you run out and can't match it, use the new dye lot for areas such as borders or when assembling. As a last resort to minimize "different dye lot stripes," work a row of the old yarn, a row of the new yarn, and repeat this for at least an inch before starting off with the new yarn.
Before substituting one yarn for another, make sure you can achieve the required gauge.
To keep your cast-on from being too tight, make it with a needle that is one size larger than what will be used for the remainder of the item.
Read through a new pattern before you begin and mark critical areas such as color changes, increases, decreases, and special stitches with a highlighter pen.
To lessen cotton rib stretch, decrease the needle size used for the ribbing and increase the length of the ribbing (be sure to subtract the additional ribbing length from the body or sleeve length.) Another method is to decrease the width of the ribbing by working fewer stitches (be sure to add the extra stitches before working the remainder of the garment.)
Tobacco or black pepper are natural moth repellents. Also, bay leaves, cedar, cloves, cinnamon, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, or wormwood will keep away unwanted bugs. Always clean garments before storing.
Keep a journal of your projects. You should always make a gauge swatch before you get started on any project and attach this swatch to your journal. Keep notes on fiber care and content and materials used. See Knit and Crochet Portfolio Sheets.
Use a diaper pin as a stitch holder substitute - it will hold many stitches and is lightweight. Other alternative stitch holders are (1) a double point needle with rubber bands secured on the ends, (2) cork from a wine bottle placed on the ends of double point needles.
Point protectors can be made by cutting an eraser to fit on the ends needles.
Paperclips, small rubber bands, or 1/4" rounds cut from a plastic straw work as alternative stitch markers. Also, leftover yarn can be folded in half and knotted to fit over the needle.
If your cast-on or bind off is too tight, use a larger sized needle to cast-on and bind off. OR, simply wrap the yarn around the needle twice and then drop the wrapped yarn when the stitch is worked.
Wash your knitting needles after completing a project made with dark yarn. This will prevent any dye residue being transferred to a lighter colored project.
How much yarn tail do I leave for the cast-on. Allow approximately 1" of yarn for every cast on stitch.
A small, zippered make-up bag makes a great tote for small things like scissors, stitch holders, etc.
To avoid sleeves coming out different lengths, work both sleeves at the same time. Just cast on two sleeves using two different balls of yarn and work the sleeve pattern (twice).
To pick up a dropped stitch, place the work knit side up and with a small crochet hook, pick up the dropped stitch. Then with the crochet hook, "work" each row until you are back to the row being worked.
To make sure the buttonholes are lined up the other side of a cardigan, use two balls of yarn and work both sides at the same time.
Allow for seaming by casting on 2 extra stitches (one each side) and working these stitches as seam stitches.
Toothbrush holders make great double point needle holders.
When you stand with your arms out, the distance from fingertips to fingertips is about your height measurement. To estimate the length of sleeves, take your height measurement and subtract the body width. Divide the remaining number by two (one for each sleeve).
Place a small project (like a hat or sock) in a large zip-top freezer plastic bag along with the necessary needles, extra yarn, scissors, etc. and have it ready for travel, doctor office visits, or any time you have a few extra minutes to spare.
Remember, if it is worth knitting, it is worth ripping out to make it right.
When doing handwork, remember to give yourself a break every once in a while by standing up and stretching and stretching out your hands.
A loose leaf binder with top loading plastic page inserts make a great pattern organizer.
Can't find buttons to match your yarn for a cardigan. Buy some small curtain rings and crochet round them with matching wool.
Use a fishing tackle box to hold all your notions, needles, etc...
To uncurl a circular knitting needle, place the curl in boiling water for a few seconds and then smooth out the curve with your fingers.
A simple needle holder can be made of PVC pipe and PVC end caps (available at hardware stores).
Avoid the frustration of threading frayed thread ends by folding thread in half, and pulling the smooth edge through the needle. See How-To Thread A Yarn Needle.
When starting to knit a garment, always leave at least 20" of yarn loose and use this yarn to start sewing the seams with. This will prevent seams becoming undone at the bottom.
You can make a knitting needle from dowel rods (cut to desired length) and sharpened with a pencil sharpener. Place rubber bands on the other ends to prevent stitches from falling off. This work great for kid's needles since the needle tips don't have to be really sharp.
If you have to rip out mohair, place it in the freezer first to make ripping easier.
When knitting a complicated pattern, it may be easier to read and see if you enlarge the pattern on a photocopier and use a highlighter to mark off the parts of the patterns that you've completed.

Consider the stitch pattern when choosing a yarn. A complicated stitch pattern will be lost among the long, hairy fibers of mohair or angora.
For a more accurate gauge, use a see-through plastic ruler when measuring stitches and rows.
To make sure you don’t run out of yarn, be sure your stitch gauge is correct. A slightly larger gauge than the pattern can cause the project to be a considerable amount of yarn (another good reason to always buy extra yarn.)
A quick and easy skein holder is to take a large plastic soft drink bottle (liter size) and cut off the top, place the skein inside, and yarn will not roll around the floor. You could also cut off the bottom and then pull the yarn out through the bottle neck. A square tissue box also works - just place the yarn inside the box and pull the yarn end out the tissue box top. An old sock will do the same thing.
At the end of a piece that will be sewn to another, leave a long enough end to do the sewing. This saves on the number of ends to be worked in later.
When working from a sweater body or sleeve to the cuff, work the row before the ribbing with the cuff needle.
A loose leaf binder with top loading plastic page inserts make a great pattern organizer.
Make gauge swatches at least 4" square in order to get an accurate measurement. You can always make an afghan of your 4” blocks.
Can't find buttons to match your yarn for a cardigan. Buy some small curtain rings and crochet round them with matching wool.
Before you tackle a knitting or crochet project, read all the instructions and underline or highlight those that apply to the desired size.
When giving a hand made gift, enclose a label from the yarn with washing instructions and extra yarn and buttons. see Gift Tags.
To make sure your finished project is the right size, the gauge is the most important aspect of a pattern. It doesn't matter what size needle you use to get the gauge. Start with the needle size suggested in the pattern and work a gauge swatch. If the swatch is larger than required, use a smaller needle and try again. If the swatch is smaller than required, use a larger needle setting and try again.
Different colors of yarn of the same brand and weight may have different textures due to the dying process. If using multiple colors, work a swatch with each color. If one color works up differently, use the larger or smaller needle for that color only. Dark colored yarns can be thicker due to the heavier dye, so purchase a little extra for safety's sake.
Always buy yarn of the same dye lot for a project and buying a few extra skeins insures you will not run out. Even "no dye lot" yarns can very slightly in color. If you cannot buy enough of one dye lot for an entire project or if you run out and can't match it, use the new dye lot for areas such as borders or when assembling. As a last resort to minimize "different dye lot stripes," work a row of the old yarn, a row of the new yarn, and repeat this for at least an inch before starting off with the new yarn.
Before substituting one yarn for another, make sure you can achieve the required gauge.
When starting to knit a garment, always leave at least 20" of yarn loose and use this yarn to start sewing the seams with. This will prevent seams becoming undone at the bottom.
Avoid the frustration of threading frayed thread ends by folding thread in half, and pulling the smooth edge through the needle. See How-To Thread A Yarn Needle.
Read through a new pattern before you begin and mark critical areas such as color changes, increases, decreases, and special stitches with a highlighter pen.
Tobacco or black pepper are natural moth repellents. Also, bay leaves, cedar, cloves, cinnamon, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, or wormwood will keep away unwanted bugs. Always clean garments before storing.
Keep a journal of your projects. You should always make a gauge swatch before you get started on any project and attach this swatch to your journal. Keep notes on fiber care and content and materials used. See Knit and Crochet Portfolio Sheets.
When you stand with your arms out, the distance from fingertips to fingertips is about your height measurement. To estimate the length of sleeves, take your height measurement and subtract the body width. Divide the remaining number by two (one for each sleeve).
Remember, if it is worth knitting, it is worth ripping out to make it right.
When doing handwork, remember to give yourself a break every once in a while by standing up and stretching and stretching out your hands.
Use a fishing tackle box to hold all your notions, needles, etc...
If you have to rip out mohair, place it in the freezer first to make ripping easier.

Take a plastic butter container lid and with a paper punch, punch holes around the edge, draw embroidery or needlepoint threads through the holes and slipknot. This makes a great palette.
Use a highlighter marker to draw down every 10 rows on a charted pattern to easily be able to count rows and stitches.
When doing handwork, remember to give yourself a break every once in a while by standing up and stretching and stretching out your hands.
Use a fishing tackle box to hold all your notions, needles, threads, etc...
To unwind tangles yarn, hold up the project and let the yarn hang free and it will spin to unwind itself.
Cover edge of needlepoint canvas with masking tape so yarn doesn't fray or catch.
Choose a piece of fabric that is at least 4′’ - 6′’ bigger on all sides than the design area.
Clean hands, clean project.
Start stitching the largest color area followed by the smaller color areas.
To help keep your work clean, start stitching darker colors; leaving the lighter colors until last.
When doing counted cross stitch, count your stitches regularly as mistakes are easier to correct if they are spotted early.
A loose leaf binder with top loading plastic page inserts make a great pattern organizer.
When working a complicated pattern, it may be easier to read and see if you enlarge the pattern on a photocopier and use a highlighter to mark off the parts of the patterns that you've completed.
To separate embroidery floss, cut the length of thread you'll need and moisten with a damp sponge. The strands will come apart easily.
When a canvas is not being worked, roll it around an empty paper towel tube.
To pick up pins that have fallen on the floor, keep a small magnet in your sewing basket.
Spray thread end with hair spray to stiffen for easier needle threading.
Avoid the frustration of threading frayed thread ends by folding thread in half, and pulling the smooth edge through the needle. See How-To Thread A Yarn Needle.
To make your own cross stitch or tapestry charts, choose an appropriate picture and place the picture over some graph paper with carbon paper in between, staple together along the top edge or hold together with paper clips. Trace the outlines of the picture. When this is done, outline the picture parts to its closest square on the graph paper, then add the colors with colored pencils. Choose yarns to match as closely as possible, making modifications as needed where required and start stitching.

Tobacco or black pepper are natural moth repellents. Also, bay leaves, cedar, cloves, cinnamon, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, or wormwood will keep away unwanted bugs. Always clean garments before storing.
Always spin a few yards of sample yarn, ply it, and critically review it to make sure it is what you want.
When selecting a spinning wheel consider your needs. Does it need to be portable. Does it need to be a "work of art". Consider single treadle Versus double treadle.
When doing handwork, remember to give yourself a break every once in a while by standing up and stretching and stretching out your hands.
For your safety, when dyeing do not eat or drink in the area where chemical are used.
When dyeing, work in a well ventilated are and always follow dye instructions.

A smoothly wound bobbin is the key to maintaining a good selvedge. An unevenly wound bobbin will jerk as it goes through the shed and pull edges out of alignment.
To quickly and easily space the warp, run a couple strips of toilet paper through the first couple sheds.
To trim the bottom edge of fringe after it is completed, use a rotary fabric cutter and a plastic or metal straight edge.
To easily spot the heddle placement and spacing, place a spot of colored nail polish on the 10th or 20th heddle.
Never leave a mistake even if it requires much time to remove - the mistake will always show.
Tobacco or black pepper are natural moth repellents. Also, bay leaves, cedar, cloves, cinnamon, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, or wormwood will keep away unwanted bugs. Always clean garments before storing.
Keep a journal of your projects. See Weaving Record Sheets.
Before putting on an new warp. go over your loom and check every bolt to make sure nothing has loosened.
To determine the number of ends per inch, wrap the yarn around a ruler with the threads touching each other. Count the thread in an inch and divide by two.
Use two shots of tabby before hemstitching.
To keep track of how far you've woven, take a 2 or 3 yard piece of seam tape and mark 1" increments along the edge. Pin this tape to the selvedge and re-pin it as you move along.
When taking your project off the loom, weave 1" of tabby and cover the tabby with white glue. When the glue dries, open the shed and place cardboard or bath tissue in the sheds and start weaving again.
To find out how far you've woven, using scrap yarn, tie a piece ont he selvedge every 12". Then just count the markers.
When doing handwork, remember to give yourself a break every once in a while by standing up and stretching and stretching out your hands.
Stand at the side of your loom and view your weaving. Any errors will clearly appear.
When you buy miniblinds and they need to be shortened, don't throw away the extra slats - use them as warp spacers between projects on the loom.
Use butcher paper to lay in between your warp layers.
Uneven denting should be avoided because it produces streaks that will not wash out.
An "end-feed" shuttle will produce a very nice selvedge.
Finish all weaving in ends, etc. before applying fringe.
Use a fishing tackle box to hold all your loom notions, scissors, extra heddles, bobbins, etc...
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