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Adult Hats, Scarves, Mittens and Socks

free knittting pattern

Click on the pattern titles below to connect to the written instructions.

free knittting patternButterfly Hat by Gina B. Ahrens
free knittting patternFrench Beret by Jimmy L. Simmons
free knittting patternMittens (Bond) by Karen Bourne 
free knittting patternBette's Mohair Scarf by Gina B. Ahrens 
free knittting patternAnkle Socks for the Whole Family by Gina B. Ahrens

free knittting pattern

Butterfly Hat by Gina B. Ahrens
1 skein (3.5 ounces) Plymouth Encore Knitting Worsted Weight Wool Blend Yarn (or any Worsted Weight Wool Blend Yarn)
Keyplate dot  3
CO 80 needles with WY....K 6 R......CO with MC and K 10 R.......Starting at either end do a butterfly stitch at every 10th needle........Push al needles to FWP....Knit 1 R slowly....K 9 more rows...Starting at 5 the 5th needle in from the end make butterflies in between the other butterflies you already....Row counter reads 20..... Push all needles to FWP....Knit 1 R slowly....K 9 more rows........Butterfly at every 10th stitch as you did in row 10.....Repeat alternate butterfly pattern to row 50.......Knit 10 rows straight....Drop down every third stitch 6 rows and latch up to form a 3x1 rib.....Back stitch BO...... Remove hem and gather stitches....Sew side seam and add pom pom to top...Hide yarn ends and your done...
*You could also do a rolled edge by not doing the ribbing and just BO....Then just let it roll the way it wants to... *Or you could do a picot edge by K 5 R....Then transfer every third stitch over one stitch leaving a hole...Make sure all needles are still in WP with LATCHES OPEN....Knit 5 more rows....CO onto WY and then fold over and finish like before....
You could use this pattern to practice any number of fancy stitches....At every 4th row and every 5th stitch do a twisted stitch to form cables.......OR..........Every 10th row do 2 rows in a contrasting color for stripes......OR........Use your multi prong transfer tools on every other needle at every 5th row to make eyelet holes......Or make bobbles every 10 rows and 10 or 5th stitch.....The possibilities are endless........
Butterfly Stitch: Insert your latchet tool six stitches down from the needle position where you want to place your butterfly stitch.......Ladder the stitches down to your latchet tool........Reach behind the knitting with the tool to the upper most ladder and bring it down through the sixth stitch....Hang this new loop on the needle...Continue across.........
Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.

French Beret by Jimmy L. Simmons
This beret was designed, and knitted, for my DW, Jacqueline, who has a head girth of 23-inches, but since it has an elastic band it should fit just about any adult.
Yarn:   2-1/2 oz (70 GMS) Lion Brand Wool-Ease, Color:   White Frost 501
Materials needed:
Yarn, Elastic band, Claw weights (3 or 4)
Knitted on the Bond ISM
Keyplate #3 (dot)
Gauge:  16 st, 22 r = 4 inches (10CM). [4 st 6.5 row = 1 inch (2.5CM)].
COL = Carriage On Left
COR = Carriage On Right
FHP = Forward Holding Position (Needles pulled forward as far as they will go and will not be knitted)
FWP = Forward Working Position (Needles are forward of the working position, but will be knitted)
L = Left (Needles to the left of "0"
NWP = Non Working Position (Needles are all the way back and out of work)
RC = Row Count
WP = Working Position
R = Right (Needles to the right of "0"
NOTE:  This beret is knitted in 6 identical sections, but is not removed from the machine when knitting from one section to the next.  Before starting this project, read and make sure you understand all instructions. By doing this, you will be assured of a finished beret that will make us both proud.
Cast on 30 stitches Using the short hem, and a ravel cord, with a yarn of contrasting color.
NOTE:  Do the cast-on on needles #L12 - 0 - #R18 (12 needles to the left of "0" and 18 needles to the right).
Knit 6 or 8 rows with the waste yarn and break it off...COR;. (Set the Row Counter to 000).
Thread the carriage with the main yarn, and attach a clothes pin on the free end of the yarn to hold it.
(* ) Knit 1 row, then place needle #R18 to FHP...29 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R17 to FHP...28 st in WP; (COR);
NOTE: On the first section this is a good point to pull the ravel cord and drop the hem.  Use the claw weights to keep tension on the fabric.  Hang claw weights so that they keep tension on the ends and center needles that are in WP.  Re-position the claw weights ever 2 rows, or so.  Watch the knitting.  If it tends to bunch at a particular spot then move the weights to keep the tension balanced.  This is the secret of even knitting with no splits or stitches dropping.
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R16 to FHP...27 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R15 to FHP...26 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R14 to FHP...25 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R13 to FHP...24 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R12 to FHP...23 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R11 to FHP...22 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 2 rows, then place needle #R10 to FHP...21 st in WP; (COR);
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R9 to FHP...20 st in WP; (COR);
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R8 to FHP...19 st in WP; (COR);
knit 2 rows, then place needle #R7 and #L12, #L11, #L10, and #L9 to FHP...14 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 1 row, place yarn under needle #L9 and over needles #L10 -  #L12.  If you don't do this, it will leave a hole.  This always should be done when you do short rows by pulling out needles on the opposite side of  the carriage...14 st in WP; (COL);
Move the claw weight on left side so that it keeps tension on #L8.
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R6, #L8 and #L7 to FHP...11 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L7 and over #L8-#L12...11 st in WP; (COL);
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R5, #L6, #L5, and #L4 to FHP...7 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 1 row, then place needle #R4 to FHP.  place yarn under needle #L4 and over #L5 - #L12...6 st in WP; (COL);
Knit 1 row, then place needles #L3 and #L2 to FHP.  Place yarn under needle #R4 and over #R5 - #R18...4 st in WP; (COR);
Knit 1 row, Place yarn under needle #L2 and over #L3 - #L12. Then place needles #R4 - #R18 into FWP.  Make sure that latches are open and the fabric is behind the latches...4 st in WP and 15 st in FWP. (COL)
CAREFULLY Knit 1 row, then place needles #L2 - #L12 in WP.  Make sure the latches are open and the fabric is behind the latches.  Reset the row counter to 0...19 st in WP and 11 st in FWP; (COR);
This completes section one.  Now that you have all 30 needles back into working position, repeat the instructions for the first section starting at "*" five (5) more times for a total of six (6) sections.
After knitting the sixth section you should have all 30 needles in WP; COL;
Break the yarn leaving a tail of about 2 or 3 feet. Remove the yarn from the carriage and hang a clothes pin on the free end to keep it under tension. Then move the carriage to the right side of the machine and thread it with your contrasting waste yarn.
Knit 6 or 8 rows with the waste yarn, and remove the fabric from the machine.
Pull 30 needles to FHP and place the green cards behind them to hold them.
With the right side of the fabric facing you, use the single-end transfer tool to pick up the 30 stitches (one at a time) from one end that has the waste yarn attached and hang these stitches on the needles.
Now, fold the fabric up and hang the 30 stitches from the other end than has the waste yarn on it on the same needles.  (The right side should be on the inside and facing each other.)  You should have two stitches on each needle.
Use your favorite method of binding off these stitches.  (I used the winding method).  Then remove it from the machine.  It does look like a French beret, doesn't it.
There will be a small hole in the top of the beret.  Take a short length of yarn and a yarn needle to make a draw string around the hole and pull it closed.
Turn, and sew, a hem of about 1/2 inch around the head-hole.  Be sure to leave an opening to place the elastic band in.  Put the elastic band in the hem, and sew the ends of the elastic together.
Make an I-cord about 1.5 inches long and attach it to the top.
Place the beret on your head and show it off.  Mais oui, madame, c'est tres tres chic, n'est pas.
Designed and copyrighted 1998 by Jimmy L. Simmons:  This beret is submitted to my friends on the Bond Knitting list for their enjoyment.  Permission is hereby granted to them to freely copy and pass these instructions along to their knitting long as this copyright notice is included.  This pattern may not be sold or used for commercial purposes to make a profit.

Mittens (Bond) by Karen Bourne
Note:  Page #'s refer to the "Pattern Book for Beginners" that came with the ISM.
Open CO # of sts for width of hand in WY.  (For me, this was 16 sts using Soft Creations worsted weight acrylic on KP 3.)
K 6 R in WY, then switch to MY, RC000.
K # of R's for length of hand from wrist to end of index finger. (For me, 32 R.)
Shape top by dec 1 st each side every 3 R to desired length. (For me, another 8 R to RC040, 12 sts rem.)
Switch to WY, K 6 R, and remove from machine.
Note:  Dec on st a couple of sts in from edge, so edge sts will be easier to find when joining back of hand to palm.
***Back of Hand***
Work as for palm, but use seam-as-you-knit (pg 6) to attach back to palm at sides as follows...Open CO in WY, K 6 R, COR.
To begin seam-as-you-knit, with palm purl side facing, flat edge at top and shaping at bottom, hang loop from left edge of palm on 1st working ndl on LHS.
      JJJJJ  ndls   
    /\   º  back of hand WY, purl side
   /  \--+    
  /    \       
 /palm  \   
º  MY   /º  palm WY, knit side  
ºpurl  /\º    
\ side/  \     
 \   /         
Switch to MY.
K 1 R, COL. Hang loop from right edge of palm on last working ndl on RHS.
K 1 R, COR. Continue to hang loops from edges of palm while working back of hand.
After knitting the last R of the back of hand, the knit side of the palm will be facing. Hang sts from last R of palm on ndls with last R of back and use method for joining shoulders (pg 13) to BO palm and back tog.
***Handknit Thumb***
Try on mitten and determine row where thumb should be. (For me, R 16.) Put 4 sts on R above thumb on a safety pin. Do same for 4 sts on R below thumb.
VVVV  safety pin
VvVV  thumb row
VVVV  safety pin
Cut top right of st marked with small v, unravel 2 sts each direction, and tie off loose yarn each side to create thumb opening. Pick up 12 sts around opening on 3 dp ndls.
1    2 
1    2 
K in rnds to length of thumb. (For me, 12 rnds on US # 8 dp ndls.) K 2 tog 6 X, 6 sts rem. Cut yarn, thread thru sts, pull to gather, and tie off.
***Handknit Ribbing***
Pick up bottom sts on dp ndls and K ribbing in rnds to desired length. BO. (For me, 14 rnds of 2x2 rib.)
Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.

Bette's Mohair Scarf by Gina B. Ahrens
7 skeins-1 3/4 ounce each, Pingouin Mohair Extra
Keyplate dot 4
Gauge 12 st x 12 rows= 4 inches( gauge is not that important)
Bring forward 120 needles...push back to NWP every other needle....CO with WY and knit 6 rows.....Switch to MC and knit 300 rows....You may have to rehang the hem a couple of times when the knitting hits the floor....Make sure to use lots of extra weight along the bottom and clip weights on the edges. Go slowly and make sure to constantly check for skipped stitches....You could use any kind of edge treatment but I didn't want fringe or ribbing so I did this scalloped edge that I will try to explain.....At  the last row bring all needles to holding position.....push 7 needles on the carriage side to FWP......hang a claw weight at this row....Knit 8 rows.....Using the every other needle multi prong transfer tool, move the first 7 stitches that you just worked on to the next 7 in holding position......Put stitch 1 on stitch 7, stitch 2 on stitch 8, and so on........move claw weight over too....Knit 8 rows and repeat move....Do this all the way to the end the end move the stitches in holding position on to the needles in working position.....Knit 1 row...Back stitch BO......Rehang stitches on WY and repeat the edge treatment on that end too.....Block scarf making sure to get scallops to stay flat......You will have small flaps on the back of the scallops that you might want to sew down....before finishing brush the knit side of the scarf with a hair brush to bring mohair fibers forward and make it look fluffy....
I think on the next one I will try using mohair and chennille together as one yarn maybe on every third needle....I think that would make a great scarf.....Gina....TTFN
Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.

Ankle Socks for the Whole Family by Gina B. Ahrens
Infant - fits birth to shoes size 2 (finished foot length 3 1/2 inches)
Children's Small fits shoes size 2-4 (finished foot length 4 1/2 inches)
Children's Medium fits shoes size 4-6 (finished foot length 5 1/2 inches)
Children's Large fits shoes size 6-10 (finished foot length 6 1/2 inches)
Children's Extra Large fits shoe size 10+ (finished foot length 7 1/2 inches)
Adult Small finished foot length 9 1/2 inches
Adult Medium finished foot length 10 inches
Adult Large finished foot length 11 inches
Adult Extra Large finished foot length 12 inches
1 5 ounce skein worsted weight yarn (I used Merry Pop N’ Christmas Yarn)
Gauge: 16 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches with keyplate # dot 3
Ankle- Using a closed edge cast on CO 21, 25, 29, 33  35, 37, 40, 42, 46 sts....COR....K 8,8,10,10,12,12,14,14,14 R....Drop and latch up every other row to from a K1 P1 rib........K 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 14, 6, 18, 18 R...COR
Heel-Push all needles to LHS of 0 up to HP....Push 1 needle on carriage side to HP.....K 1 R...COL....Push 1 needle on carriage side to HP...K 1 R....COR....Repeat this until only 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8 needles remain in WP....Reverse the shaping by pushing 1 needle on the opposite side of the carriage to FWP on each row until all needles on the RHS of 0 are in WP...COR...( note it is extremely helpful to use claw weights when shaping the heels and toes )....Push needles on LHS back to FWP...K 1 R slowly....Make sure all latches are open before you do this or you will
drop stitches Foot-K 5, 8, 16, 18, 21, 25, 29, 32, 36 R
Toe- Repeat as for heel...Cast off onto WY.....
Finishing-Bring the sts with the WY attached together and graft the MY sts together....Sew the side seam.... 
Second Sock-Be sure to reverse the shaping for the toe and heel by using the LHS sts to form them instead of the RHS....
Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.


This material is copyrighted and printed with permission and may be used for your personal use only.
It may not be copied or reproduced in any form, sold, or copied or posted to another web site.




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