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Baby Blankets, Socks, Slippers, Hats and Sweaters

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Click on the pattern titles below to connect to the written instructions.

free knittting patternQuick Baby Blanket by Janet Miller
free knittting patternAnkle Socks for the Whole Family by Gina B. Ahrens
free knittting patternBaby Knit Hat by Gina B. Ahrens
free knittting patternBasic Baby Bonnet Pattern by Dale Freundlich
free knittting patternChild's Jersey to fit 60cm Chest by Ann Cooper
free knittting patternHooded Back Zipped Baby Sweater (Bond) by Ann Yotter

free knittting pattern

Quick Baby Blanket by Janet Miller
Here's a really quick, I need it tonight, can't bother with a gauge swatch baby blanket I made this weekend.
Using RedHeart baby soft ( a sport weight yarn) and keyplate 2 E-wrap cast on 100 stitches ( I don't have any extensions but It would be okay wider too)
Knit 200 rows or twice as many as the number of stitches you cast on..
Bind off.
Put on the edging of your dreams.  I was going to use a piecrust but I can crochet faster so i did one row of SC and 3 rows of mock crochet rib.  It came out very soft and drapey and a little bigger than a receiving blanket which I used plenty of when I had my babies.  I can't give you the exact measurements cause I had to get it wrapped up and give it away.  Enjoy:)
The Red Heart baby soft  is 6oz.  I used one whole skein to knit the blanket and a little of another skein to crochet the edging, maybe 2 oz, so about 8 oz altogether.
Copyrighted by Janet Miller

Baby Knit Hat by Gina B. Ahrens
1 skein sayelle 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn or 2 skeins baby weight yarn any kind any color
You need about 3 ounces
Key plate # 3
CO 68 needles with MC leaving a 2 foot length....K 40 R.......Push out every third needle to HP...CO those needles onto WY.....Push those needle back to NWP....Knit 10 R....Latch up CO stitches to form ribs....Break off MC leaving 2 foot length...K 6 R with WY....remove from machine.....Do Not remove hem yet.....Fold over ribs and use the long length of the tail to sew down......Before removing hem...Use the long length of that tail to thread threw each stitch that is attached to the weighted hem....Remove hem and gather stitches....Sew side seam and add pom pom to top...Hide yarn ends and your done... You could also do a rolled edge by continuing the stocking net stitch for 10 rows and then BO....Then just let it roll the way it wants to... Or you could do a picot edge by K 5 R....Then transfer every third stitch over one stitch leaving a hole...Make sure all needles are still in WP with LATCHES OPEN....Knit 5 more rows....CO onto WY and then fold over and finish like before....
Do not reproduce this pattern or post to any internet site without express permission from the author.

Basic Baby Bonnet Pattern by Dale Freundlich
T 4 22st and 32 r = 4 in
50 g ball of baby or fingering yarn (plenty left over for booties)
Cast on 22 stitches WY knit 6 r.
Change to MC and knit 32 r. COL
E-wrap 22 stitches from right to left.
Carefully knit across. COR
E-wrap 22 st from left to right and knit back across 66 st. Knit 32 r.
RC 66 (You have a "T" shaped piece) Remove onto WY.
Rehang and knit 1 r. (turning r for hem) Remove onto WY again and rehang. Knit 6 r for hem. CO, turn hem back and sew into place leaving ends open.
Sew side seams so you now have a cube with 2 open sides for face and neck. Rehang 66 neck edge st onto 48 needles. T3 knit 10 r and ladder for k1p1 ribbing. CO.
Thread ribbon or crochet cord (for ties) through hem at face edge. You may gather the hem slightly so edge flares a bit. Stitch ties in place catching both ribbing and hem.
I don't know if my next GC is a boy or girl, so I made the hat sort of gender neutral. You can do the hem in an eyelet stitch and perhaps add some increases evenly across r 60 to make it more frilly. I used a different color for the edge of the hem, the ribbing and the ties. I'm sure all you creative folks will come up with wonderful variations.
© Dale Freundlich, 3/1/95. This pattern may be distributed free of charge, but not to be knitted and resold without express permission of the originator.

Child’s Jersey to Fit 60cm Chest by Ann Cooper
Knitted on Brother 830 using any single motif punch card for the front panel.
The front panel is 38 stitches by 103 rows. Before beginning garment, work out placement of single motif, particularly for the rows. If the motif is, for example, 65 rows long decide where you want it to begin and end in relation to the number of rows in the panel.
T7. = 28 stitches and 38 rows. Perendale wool 2OOgr. main colour 50 grams. contrast. 
BACK With MC cast on 92 Stitches for lx1 rib, T2, rib 20 rows, transfer to Main bed. Placing armhole marker at RC 72, in main tension and stocking stitch, knit to RC122. With waste yarn, take off 28 stitches for each shoulder and 36 stitches for the neck.
CENTRE PANEL Using contrast colour cast on 38 stitches and rib as for back. Transfer to stocking stitch and set for single motif as required. Knit 4 rows, on both sides of panel transfer 3rd stitch in to the second needle, making an ‘eyelet'. Repeat every 4th row until RC100. Knit 3 more rows and take off on waste yarn.
FRONTS (Left and right front panels) With MC cast on 38 stitches and rib as for the back. Transfer to Stocking Stitch. Knit 4 rows. With wrong side facing put the 2 prong tool, through the first eyelet of the centre panel. Take 2 stitches from the 'inside edge' of the front, lift off the needles and through the 'eyelet hole' on the outer edge and place back on the machine. Repeat to RClOO then place a neck marker at RClO3. Also place an armhole marker at RC72 as on the back. Take off on waste yarn at RC122. Do the same with the other front.
Join one shoulder. Place stitches on the machine for neckband - 36 stitches from the back, 14 stitches down each side of the outside panels and 38 stitches from centre panel. Knit 1 row MT and transfer to rib and rib tension. Rib 20 rows. Transfer stitches to main bed but leave rib needles in position. Pick up loops from first row of ribbing and place on MB stitches. Set ribber to HP, Tension 10 on MB, 2 on ribber and knit 1 row. Drop loops of ribber and latchtool cast off. Join second shoulder.
SLEEVE Cast on 52 stitches MC and rib as for back and fronts. Transfer to stocking stitch and MT. Increasing 1 stitch each end every 6th row, knit to RC78. Take off on garter bar or waste yarn. With right side facing, place armhole of the body onto the machine between the markers. Return sleeve to needles and pull stitches through the body. Using the same idea as on the neckband (ribber needles in position, knit 1 row T1O/2) Latch off. Sew side and sleeve seams. Embellish single motif for effect - e.g. eyes, tail, embroider features on animals etc. 
© Ann Cooper - Nelson, New Zealand coopers@internet.co.nz

Hooded Back Zipped Baby Sweater (Bond) by Ann Yotter
Hand pattern by Marilyn Kranz, Killbuck, OH, adapted to the Bond by Ann Yotter
Here is a pattern for a back zipped baby sweater I adapted to the machine. The original, published in Country Handcrafts, had cows duplicate st'ed on the hood and around the bottom. You can decorate freely with intarsia, fairisle, duplicate st or do like me and take the easy way out and use variegated yarn.
If you can manage, do the 2 back pieces at the same time so the weights are the same for the front and back for the same number of sts. You can do this with an intarsia plate if you have one. Otherwise, watch that a back doesn't have too much weight, or you end up with them longer than the front. (Been there, done that!) I've been using a half length hem of 50 sts with smaller bars. The zipper is easier to sew in if you do the sweater thru sewing the hood together, then sew it in before the side seams are done. Doing the zipper last after the whole thing was done was harder than adding it after the hood. I just sewed it  on the sewing machine. The zipper tape stabilizes it while you work.
I had a nylon Unique zipper in the drawer that was the right color and length. Didn't sew it in like it is supposed to be, just stitched up the sides of it. It doesn't show any teeth from the front side when zipped. I also tried doing a garter st edging along the zipper.  It was more work than it was worth and I thought it looked better when the zipper appeared like a seam when closed.
I used KP 2.5 - KP2 for ribbing the first time,  KP 2 after that
You aren't so tight for yarn with KP2.
5 oz sport wgt yarn (I used ALL of 6 oz on KP 2.5)
I used Red Heart Baby Sport Pompadour
hand gauge: 5 sts, 7 rows = 1 " on #7 AM needles
(I got 4 x 6 on KP 2.5, 4.5 x 6.5 on KP2)
Chest measures 22" (Mine is ~25" for KP2.5, forgot to measure the KP2 before I mailed it)
Front:
  Cast on closed on waste yarn 54 sts.
Work 7 rows of 1x1 ribbing.   Knit 49 rows.
  Bind off 2 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows.
Decr 1 st on each side on the next row - 48 sts
Work 1 row even, work another decrease row - 46 sts.
Work even until row 66.
Work 14  sts, place 14 st at other end in HP and run a strand of yarn thru the center 18 sts and remove them from the machine.  Now just work on one side at a time. (Removing the center sts keeps the weight on the sts so they don't pop off.  Otherwise the short rows are hard to weight.)
Decr 1 st at neck edge (center)
Work 1 row even.
Decr 1 st at neck edge again - 12 sts.
Work even to row 75.  Place on WY.
Join a new yarn strand at other end and repeat the neckline shaping on the other side, leaving 18 sts on a holder in the center.  I worked both sides from the outside edge going in instead of joining a strand in the center of the front.  Don't forget to reset your row counter.
Backs:
  Cast on closed onto WY 26 st.
(Remember to work 2 pcs in mirror images).
Work 7 rows of 1x1 ribbing.
Work even for 49 (50)rows.
Bind off 2 sts on the armhole side on the next row.
I do this by working the first 3 sts by hand, then putting the last one into HP and finishing the row with the carriage. Return the st to FWP.
Work even to row 75, place on WY.
Shoulder seam:
Hang the 24 shoulder sts of one side of the back on the machine, right side facing you. Push behind the latches. Rehang the 12 shoulder sts of the front, wrong side facing you, in the hooks at the outside armhole edge, then pull them thru the sts of the back.  Leave the extra 12 back sts in HP on the needles.  Bind off the seam sts.  (I did a crochet bind off on these sts and ended up at the armhole and left a tail for sewing later.  I pull a loop thru the first st with a crochet hook, then pull another loop thru the next st over AND the one on the hook. Repeat across, leaving the sts on the hooks until finished, then remove them all at once.
Hood :  You still have 12 sts left on the back.
Rehang them so the wrong side is facing you, pick up 8 sts along the front neck edge and rehang the remaining 9 sts of the front - 29 sts.
  These 9 sts are half of the 18 that are in the center on a strand of yarn.  It is easier to find the spacing if you do the far 9 first, leaving 8 blank needles, then go back and space those sts.  Leave the other 9 sts on the yarn strand for the other side of the hood.
Reset the row counter to 0.
Knit 59 rows, working a 4 st band of garter st at the edge coming out of the center front.  Convert the 4 st to K when the carriage is on that side of the work.
 Place on waste yarn or a holder.
Repeat, joining the other shoulder seam and picking up and knitting the sts for the other side of the hood.  Rehang the 29 hood sts on the machine, right side facing you, push behind the latches.  Hang the other side of the hood in the hooks, wrong side facing you, and pull thru the first set of sts, then bind off the live loops.  Now seam the back shut with contrasting waste yarn doing an invisible seam and sew in the zipper under the join.  I used a 22" zipper  and had about an inch of hood to seam above the end of it.  You put in the zipper upside down so you don't need a separating one.
Sleeves:  Make 2
 Hang the armhole of the sweater (including the 2 bound off sts at each end) on 38 needles with the shoulder seam centered, put the 12 outside needles on each side in HP and knit the center 14 sts. Then increase 1 st at each end of the next 10 rows until 34 needles are working.  - 11 rows Do this by moving 1 st at each end of the 14 center ones from HP to FWP. On the carriage side, bring the yarn under that needle so it loops outside it and over the top of it as you knit the row. Row 12  - Add 2 sts at each end on the next row.
Row 13 - Work even.
 Knit even to row 55.
Decrease 8 sts by rehanging with every 4th st doubled up. - 30 sts
 Work 7 rows of rib.  Bind off.  Sew up underarm/side seam.
I chained a drawstring and wove it at the inside edge of the garter st band around the face to close up the face a little if needed.  The sts were plenty open for it. The original pattern had a series of lace holes worked in the st st by the garter st trim but I didn't find them necessary.  I also put a tiny pom on the point of the hood.
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